Twenty-five days after departing
for Papua New Guinea we have returned unscathed, healthy and stoked with
what we've achieved... the First Descent of the Grand Canyons of the
Chimbu. An amazing feat considering the potential pitfalls of executing
such a trip, and now I will attempt to tell the tale of the second
'Gradient and Water' expedition. I think its important to start from the
very beginning to paint the picture for those who do not know the
history, crew and plan of the expedition. After quickly filling this
little contextual void I will take you from Christchurch to Kundiawa,
driving from the West Coast of New Zealand, three flights, nine hours
driving into the highlands, some paddling, a little conflict and then
some last minute preparation for our attempt on the Chimbu.
In
2011 Barny Young, Shannon Mast and Myself (Jordan Searle) completed the
first 'Gradient and Water' kayaking expedition to Papua New Guinea. For
a country with endless whitewater potential, considering topography and
climate, there had been little previous whitewater exploration. We'd
heard rumours of failed expedition from a UK group and a German group
that achieved a few things but no one had really done PNG justice. A
National Geographic funded group had a successful trip to West New
Britain, an island off the coast of the PNG mainland. It was the
Highlands, however, that had our attention and that was where we'd be
going. Well, that's where we went after exhausting all our options in
the Morobe province (3 First Descents) and had no other plausible option
but to strap on the back of the truck and head into the Highlands.
During this risky 2 week probe into the Highlands, we achieved great
things but one thing that we didn't achieve was a descent of the Chimbu
River. Our first attempt we went in haphazardly as we'd heard that some
rafts had done the river in the past. This was true, sort of. A rafting
attempt was foiled as the whitewater was too full on and they were
eventually carried out. So after some full on paddling, brutal portaging
and then arriving at another box canyon we had to hike out of the
river. Broken and defeated. To make things hurt even more, we came back a
few days later and committed to the Sikewage Gorge but Barny ended up
swimming and losing his kayak, once again forcing us off the river and
leaving a metaphorical thorn in our sides. This thorn, however, would
be the motivation for our 2013 expedition.
Barny coming undone in 2011
Barny routing 'Kick-Right Falls' in 2011
So
when initially planning our return to Papua New Guinea I really wanted
to take the original crew of Barny Young, Shannon Mast and Myself. This,
unfortunately, was not to be as Shannon was unable to commit to the
trip which left a big void in the team. The show had to go on, so after
racking our minds for a while for who would be a suitable replacement
for Shannon we extended some invitations to our good friends. And we got
more than we bargained for. Matt Coles, pretty much Shannon's
understudy, threw his hat in the ring almost immediately but had to wait
and see when he would be beginning his helicopter license. Not too long
after this I was chatting to Ari Walker about his plans and with almost
not arm twisting he committed to the trip, transferring his
contribution pretty much the next day. Shannon's spot was now filled and
we could now move on with our planning. THEN, only days later, Matt
found out he was able to start his training in October which meant he
would be able to come. After a considering the logistical difference of
taking another paddler we figured, 'why not'. So our team was set, 4
instead of 3 and it would be Matt and Ari's first experience of
expedition kayaking.
The original expedition team of 2011
The
plan was simple. Get as far up the Chimbu River as possible/permitted
and have a safe descent down through the numerous canyons to Kundiawa.
Obviously there was a lot more to it than that, and that is what you're
about to read.
Watching the boats be loaded, we did this for every flight.
Our
team was flying out of Christchurch on May 3rd, so I made my way over a
day or so earlier just to ensure everything was sorted. Barny and Ari
had the same idea, so went spent the last day or so working through the
last little things. Two things were off, one I had forgotten to bring
the Back Country meals for the trip and where was Matt? My flat mate,
Jon Slater, sorted out the forgotten meals with a same day courier and
at about the time the meals arrived we received a txt from Matt... he'd
been on a multi-day paddling trip on the West Coast and had just got off
the river. 5pm, wet gear, 5 or so hours driving. Would he make it, we
hoped so but weren't to sure. So the night before our 6am flight we went
to sleep with the alarm set for 3:15am and Colesy had a long night
ahead. Which he pulled off. We arrived at the airport around 3:45am and
Matt was there waiting with no other than Shannon Mast, which was quite
fitting. We checked in our luggage, four 32kg kayaks (full of gear) at
$80 each and two bags, and we were on the mission. A flight through
Brisbane, expensive food to say the least, then onto Port Moresby.
Thankfully Slate got these too us.
Even
though we knew it was coming, the heat and humidity was a shock to the
system once we got off the aeroplane. Its always around 30-32 degrees
celcius and 2000% percent humidity, well not that much humidity but you
know what im saying. Once we arrived we were straight into it, almost
getting hustled for 100Kina (about $50NZD) at the cellphone retailer and
then waiting in the domestic terminal for a couple of hours. Much to
our surprise, our flight did depart on time and our boats were loaded,
we were definitely watching. Our flight was good, the complementary
shortbread tasted great and after the forty-five minute flight over the
Owen Stanley Range we landed safely at Nadzap - Lae International
Airport. A modest airport, about the same size as the Hokitika Airport,
surrounded in the typical razor-wire and security guards that are
uniform around most structures in PNG. Our gear all arrived, our pick-up
was prompt thanks to our friend Murrey Fletcher (a bad-ass ex-pat
Australian come PNG National who hooks it up) and we were soon cruising
back to Lae in the all too familiar situation of sitting on the back of
the truck. Its funny, it had been more than two years since our last
expedition but once we were there it felt like we had never left. Almost
felt as if Barny and I had just gone to pick up Ari and Matt and we
were just continuing our last expedition. Just under and hour later we
arrived back to Murrey's house, in the dodgy Chinatown suburb, and
unloaded. Reacquainting ourselves with the 6m x 3m room that we based
ourselves out of in 2011. That night someone had the typical first night
in PNG freak-out in their sleep, Ari I think, but we all slept well and
awoke with great enthusiasm... time to get on the mission!
Matt going into the darkess... literally.
Well
that's what everyone else thought, but I knew/thought the process of
lining up a vehicle would take some time so was ready to just take it
easy for a few days while things work themselves out. Arriving on a
Friday wasn't the best idea as it quickly became apparent that things
would be much harder to work out over the weekend. We got the balling
rolling though, meeting with our well connected national friend Reuben
Mete. Who then introduced us to Papi, even equally or even more connect
man is Lae. We chatted for a while, blew off the extortion like price
that was first suggested and told Papi what we paid and done last time.
He said he would sort it, so we left it at that. Nothing definitive but
it is PNG. Walking home we found an actual car hire place where we got a
quote, which would be good for negotiating the price of a vehicle with
Papi and co. Come Monday 9am however, after a few prompting phone calls,
Papi pulled through by lining us up a Hilux for a pleasing price. Not
to mention, the price was set. No last minute this, or the rate is
actually that. It was set. Also, Barny noticed one tyre was particularly
worn and they replaced it immediately. All too good to be true, nope!
By noon that day we were on our way towards Kundiawa, three days ahead
of what I thought would be our schedule and with Tony, our driver for
the trip. A little more timid that Graham from 2011, but Tony would turn
out to be a clutch member of our expedition. With some extra time in
hand I thought it would make sense to get some time on the water and
there just happened to be an amazing section of river on the way, the
Mai River. First though, we had about 6 or 7 hours of sitting on the
back of a truck while Tony ripped along the pot-hole ridden road and
even had a shower of rain to contend with. All good though, that's what
an expedition is all about.
Loaded up and ready for the mission, picking up supplies from Food Mart.
Ari 'Beiber' Walker.
Local markets that border the road.
Matt being an ambassador.
Caught out in the rain!
We
arrived to the Chuave area in the evening so decided to stay at the
Tama Siane guest house, where we spent a few nights last time with John
and Hanna. They were stoked to see we were back and gave us a
great rate for accommodating five guys. We ate well, slept even better
and were fired up to be paddling the next day.
- Matt woke up...
Arriving
at the
confluence of Koningi Creek and the Mai River, we were greeted by
numerous people that remembered us being there two years earlier. Smiles
and adoration, it was nice to be back. We didn't take long to get ready
though, our eagerness was uncontrollable. Barny and I put on knowing
what to expect, but Ari and Matt were in for a surprise. From the outset
is it class IV-V with the warming cheer of children running down the
river bank trying to get a peak at these 'long-long' or crazy whiteman.
What a good way to prepare for the Chimbu. But Barny and myself had
other things in mind. The cherry on top for the Mai River is a technical
waterfall at the end of the run called 'Kick-Right Falls', aptly named
by Barny after we all paddled it in 2011. Once we got down to it,
however, our hears sunk a little as the lower flow meant that the line
was a lot tighter AND there was now a log across the entrance that would
of been submerged at a higher flow. So we all decided that it wasn't to
be on this trip and decided to hike back up to the bridge, but not
before running into an old friend Joseph. I'm not too sure if it the
same boy, but Barny thinks is the same boy that told him, "I am your
friend, please don't die" before Barny paddled Kick-Right in 2011.
Anyway, Joseph set to telling us about a recent incident where 3 women
accused of Sorcery were thrown from the bridge with stones attached to
their ankles and then went on to point to the area that police recovered
their bodies. This was okay though as he reassured us that this meant
that there were no witches in the area. This is a sad reality for some
places in PNG as people do not understand why young people die even
though aids and other diseases are prevalent in the area, so it is
blamed on sorcery which sets of a series of killings and retributions.
We shock this off and had to get on with it, you've got to have a thick
skin in PNG.
Tama Siane Guest-House.
Dinner... 
Barny and Ari relaxing.
Morning view at Tama Siane
Matt on the initial rapids of the Mai.
We always gather attention wherever we go. 
The people of PNG live by and along the river.
A massive cylinder making some of the whitewater.
A solitary fisherman wondering what the hell is going on.
Typical lower Mai backdrop.
Oh Mai Mai
We walked back to the truck and began to
load our gear with no real direction, and soon a small group of people
around us grew into a bigger group. Then out of nowhere Joseph
reluctantly said that we are required to pay a fee for experiencing the
area. I took then initiative and asked who was this fee to go to, to
which Joseph introduced me to a man called Hitler. I didn't want any
money to pass hands as this sets a bad precedent and makes it harder for
anyone else who visits the area and I needed to explain this. I done
this by explaining that if this is the only river in PNG where people
are charged to 'experience' it, then no one else will come there. But if
we leave with a good story about the hospitality of this place, the
amazing whitewater, people and scenery then more people will come and
spend money in the local markets, stay in their guesthouses and even
hire local guides if they are so required. Hitler, however, was
insistent about the money and the group was continually growing around
us. So I stepped Hitler and Joseph to the side and Barny coerced
everyone else away with the idea of getting a group photo. Ari and Matt
were concerned about this situation, but I felt it was under control and
eventually my persistence paid off and we can to somewhat of an
understanding. We gave him and his friends a ride back up to the town
ship of Chuave where I reiterated to Hitler why we hadn't given any
money and he was happy with that. We then carried on our way to
Kundiawa, about a one hour drive, from where we would launch our assault
on the Grand Canyons of the Chimbu!
Barny attempting to distract the locals at Chuave.
People just walk out of nowhere to have a yarn.
The next post will detail from Kundiawa to Kundiawa, and our First Descent of the Grand Canyons of the Chimbu.
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