tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-33246271314741817142024-03-13T14:00:57.257-07:00Gradient & Water - Papua New Guinea 2013Jordan Searle and Barny Young are heading back into the jungle, this time with good friends Ari Walker and Matt Coles. Their goal, to finish what they started in 2011... the First Descent of the Grand Canyons of the ChimbuGW Boyshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13039561902337322202noreply@blogger.comBlogger3125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3324627131474181714.post-64176081107687613832013-07-24T20:20:00.002-07:002013-07-24T20:20:06.074-07:00Part 1 of 2: First Descent of the Grand Canyons of the Chimbu - Papua New Guinea. <div style="text-align: justify;">
So after what I would call a pretty
smooth start to the trip it was time to make our way to Kundiawa and
begin the meat of our expedition. Our first hurdle was a small one,
where exactly was Gom Yomba Guesthouse. We arrived in Kundiawa late
afternoon and absorbed the always unsettling feeling of being the new
'whiteys' in town. Don't get me wrong we were almost always warmly
welcomed into areas we went, but there is always a certain amount of
apprehension in the local community when it comes to white people being
there and when you roll into a 'city' like Kundiawa it is impossible to
get across the message that we're just some kiwi's trying to go for a
paddle, that is all! We grabbed some supplies from the supermarket,
there is a very limited selection in Kundiawa's supermarket, and then
Barny and I jogged our memories while we drove around the back-roads of
Kundiawa looking for our safe and warm place to sleep. Fortunately we
worked it out, more like stumbled upon, and were soon unpacking our gear
and relaxing. Well, relaxing as much as you do in PNG. After hanging
out our gear we were reminded that we were idiots, and then moved all
our gear to a secluded clothes line where people passing by couldn't see
it. We then introduced ourselves to the other occupants of the
guesthouse, which were a group of hand-selected anti-corruption police
officers that were carrying out an investigation in the neighbouring
province of Giwaka. To top this off, they were staying in Kundiawa so
there was LESS chance of retribution attacks from the 'won-toks' (like
an extended family that you're obligated to) of those being investigated
and those arrested. Less likely, but they still slept with their
machine-guns in their rooms. We had other things to think of so set to
the task of feeding our growling stomachs and making sure we got our
gear sorted before getting as much sleep as possible, tomorrow was going
to be a big day.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3Ja4kYAwJhkUbwOgrW7Eg5JoydDRWUIWSHmfimZ4gm0sy7jdbY8_-JiNZ4Yfg_Qx8cS3TcUEo5pB3unDn5QnZeJ9atzhAjjNYvDRYgj9t1HFt4fEQF57U6FV9TTNqBk0UPnq_9LR1gcvE/s1600/IMG_8023.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3Ja4kYAwJhkUbwOgrW7Eg5JoydDRWUIWSHmfimZ4gm0sy7jdbY8_-JiNZ4Yfg_Qx8cS3TcUEo5pB3unDn5QnZeJ9atzhAjjNYvDRYgj9t1HFt4fEQF57U6FV9TTNqBk0UPnq_9LR1gcvE/s640/IMG_8023.JPG" width="640" /></a> </div>
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Casual waiting to leave the guesthouse</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgToBoUyTCp7FF25iNeH04bOCGM5Gf40yhUyoSzhsBzBOl8QSME0wpXnPizACSehod-cfJ8VyBz_4esClk-YqRyeJ0awxZ05T8EUIYGY97kcW_vEtne1VkbXnIr79UCu7ZXnG_avWpXpYeZ/s1600/IMG_8027.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgToBoUyTCp7FF25iNeH04bOCGM5Gf40yhUyoSzhsBzBOl8QSME0wpXnPizACSehod-cfJ8VyBz_4esClk-YqRyeJ0awxZ05T8EUIYGY97kcW_vEtne1VkbXnIr79UCu7ZXnG_avWpXpYeZ/s640/IMG_8027.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Local kids are awesome!</div>
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Woken
up by the infuriating crow of roosters, you never become accustomed to
it while you're there, we quickly had some breakfast and loaded the
truck. Food, paddling &amp; camping gear and bottled water...
keeping it simple. I jokingly told the cops that were also staying at
the guesthouse that if we were not back in like 5 days to come up the
Chimbu guns 'a' blazing, and Mattieu quiet seriously assured me that
they would. Somewhat reassuring I guess. Our plan was to drive up the
valley and let the people in the area know what our plan was, identify
places where we would get out for the night and arrange a place to stay
in the vicinity and also to identify places where the road intersects
the river so we could let Tony, our driver, know we were okay and
whether we would continue or get out. Barny and I were somewhat familiar
with the road and area up to Banana Market Bridge, so we didn't take
too much time to inspect the river while driving up. We did, however,
notice that current road development had blasted a huge amount of rock
to the exit of Sikewage Gorge. The same gorge that Barny swam and lost
his kayak in last time and also the same gorge that we knew went
underground at the end. We figured we had a few days paddling above this
to think about first, and decided we would try inspect the gorge when
we came to it since we were planning to take out and stay with the
villagers above the gorge. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhigzrgKtUvLx2QmsFbnyEAeSbn8LyHiZxjQCCU7UtljLtUt7l2Th7QEVJXipIXttbyBS3m-2FLbK8CqZl-AO9tHdos7n6V9lWRjLrR95cEAwmNjVe9PdDk2BX3wi_KdG6jxDXBZowsfPqr/s1600/DSC_2613.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhigzrgKtUvLx2QmsFbnyEAeSbn8LyHiZxjQCCU7UtljLtUt7l2Th7QEVJXipIXttbyBS3m-2FLbK8CqZl-AO9tHdos7n6V9lWRjLrR95cEAwmNjVe9PdDk2BX3wi_KdG6jxDXBZowsfPqr/s640/DSC_2613.jpg" width="640" /></a> </div>
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Looking at the changes to the exit of Sikewage Gorge</div>
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The
road is always littered with people. People walking to and from the
market. People manning little stalls selling vegetables, bettle-nut
(which has a doping like effect), crackers, oreos and sometimes can's of
coke or even SP Beer. And in most instances, people smiling and
cheering as our loaded truck bounced up the often rough 4wd road. The
drive was broken up by several groups of villagers working on parts of
the road that were in dire need of attention, well mostly. Two of the
occasions we were stopped we were asked to pay a fee towards the work
the group were doing. This wasn't something mandatory and there original
request was way to much, morally more than monetary wise, so we offered
them $10K and $20K ($5 and $10 NZD) respectively which they accepted
happily. There was one instance, disappointingly, where some young men
stopped us and demanded some money. This was obviously a bit of a have
but before we could get into proper negotiations $5K passed hands, much
to the dislike of an approaching elder from the area. He reiterated what
we already knew, this would set a bad precedent but Tony, thinking he
was taking the initiative for a good price, had made a mistake. Lesson
learned and for a small price, so we carried on a bit wiser. But I must
stress, pretty much everyone who seen us travelling up the Chimbu was
happy to see us, waving and cheering.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKWgzWiOuw1SHTZy2s8fJl0m39RIugYzC-sa3pv0C_FwD7tkHx_24plLzHB72YMGRLOrES-bn4lBhcboVrvyp2WKIPjL-KtDrlfQ5h1UYJgKGiI-c9n_3e1fpdS5S1_8o4jrUVc2DPYokR/s1600/IMG_0666.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKWgzWiOuw1SHTZy2s8fJl0m39RIugYzC-sa3pv0C_FwD7tkHx_24plLzHB72YMGRLOrES-bn4lBhcboVrvyp2WKIPjL-KtDrlfQ5h1UYJgKGiI-c9n_3e1fpdS5S1_8o4jrUVc2DPYokR/s640/IMG_0666.JPG" width="640" /></a> </div>
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Ari and myself trying to capture the awesome Sikewage Gorge</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyYQzrIx_XO6mKtBMD82j8CFCyZA9M2rtLadDCmHZpv3FnEUfugX8IZdt857ue9nYiXEI2BGberE0AYwx-uToGPV7lGs2MMfNqBjnnT5QJ3lJdJWLJZSp7kPy1pq5K4yyZJKI4WWQCiBG0/s1600/IMG_8039.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyYQzrIx_XO6mKtBMD82j8CFCyZA9M2rtLadDCmHZpv3FnEUfugX8IZdt857ue9nYiXEI2BGberE0AYwx-uToGPV7lGs2MMfNqBjnnT5QJ3lJdJWLJZSp7kPy1pq5K4yyZJKI4WWQCiBG0/s640/IMG_8039.JPG" width="426" /></a></div>
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Sort of got it...</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKCPqokWP8UlpLKhyphenhyphen-uaEYM_GYAgwarPXT8zH0FnDj9Emls1t3CdpGgFF2Y-c1eClbSJa_h9JgOXSWw3voscVuR3HGC3PaNIacvGIx-2mNZt-0gP69FBcbP-QaEN0v9MuhceGGKMn3P9tC/s1600/IMG_8043.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKCPqokWP8UlpLKhyphenhyphen-uaEYM_GYAgwarPXT8zH0FnDj9Emls1t3CdpGgFF2Y-c1eClbSJa_h9JgOXSWw3voscVuR3HGC3PaNIacvGIx-2mNZt-0gP69FBcbP-QaEN0v9MuhceGGKMn3P9tC/s640/IMG_8043.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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By cutting through this fellas land... angry locals they said, yeah right.</div>
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Our
goal was to drive to a 'Lake', it's size and the time to get there very
much unknown. You very rarely get a concise or definitive answer in
PNG, but this lake really took the cake. Between 2-4 hours drive from
Kundiawa, only 2 hours walk from here, only 1 hour walk from there, its
just around the corner, its like another 3 hours drive from here... You
get the picture. No idea whatsoever. We trudged on, continuing our
process of meet, greet and look for a place to stay etc. I guess it was
about 4 or more hours into our drive we came across the stunning
high-alpine settlement of Gembogl Station. This was where I thought we'd
be putting on in my original planning, but the size of the river
definitely encouraged us to continue up the river. The road continued,
and so did we. Another road block was negotiated and then we noticed a
sizable tributary branch off with much needed water. With another
promise of the 'Lake' being not too far we carried on to Gembugl Bridge,
just before Denglagu Mission. By this stage the river was reduced to a
very small creek, still navigable but it would be some definite
boat-abuse. No local information was helpful, we got told it was only
like 2km to the 'Lake' but then were told it would take another hour or
so to drive there, then got told it was hours away. We really wanted to
put on at this lake, but also had to take into the consideration whether
we would find a safe place to stay for us, our gear and even the truck.
We figured we had a good chance of securing that at Gembogl Station
just a few kilometres downstream, but should we go to the lake. After
thinking through numerous possibilities we finally decided this would be
a good place to put on our expedition. From the sounds of things the
river flattened just above into a even lower volume braided section and
our entire crews safety was the primary concern. So this would be it, we
were putting on for the First Descent of the Grand Canyons of the
Chimbu.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheani2O9AVeIurg2IuVJ0CsybUmdB7kOap3dtEAkX9PbPqoh-xnh2Vj713WfCJ42WyAeX22l7m-elZctX80ZMMUcUZKYWX8qRWYtQpth6YZ5DhN-6gEOixmogOYTGvtrjO6k3GhY8NVJ5C/s1600/IMG_8055.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheani2O9AVeIurg2IuVJ0CsybUmdB7kOap3dtEAkX9PbPqoh-xnh2Vj713WfCJ42WyAeX22l7m-elZctX80ZMMUcUZKYWX8qRWYtQpth6YZ5DhN-6gEOixmogOYTGvtrjO6k3GhY8NVJ5C/s640/IMG_8055.JPG" width="426" /></a> </div>
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More cutting through land and no hostility, such an amazing</div>
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river and landscape</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigczFwam_s2VGdjhEBcr-vZ7JDBnkC8nvmXe5mLamkkM4i6gK6jDce0Rp-MfBjbQkCAmRfU4K-FREWKtiuMydLvCbPiHO6kjYKLIksxBT6e9hhx4RbFsCEZrZOnKbWSsOQRCGBKHvmPl9-/s1600/IMG_8096.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigczFwam_s2VGdjhEBcr-vZ7JDBnkC8nvmXe5mLamkkM4i6gK6jDce0Rp-MfBjbQkCAmRfU4K-FREWKtiuMydLvCbPiHO6kjYKLIksxBT6e9hhx4RbFsCEZrZOnKbWSsOQRCGBKHvmPl9-/s640/IMG_8096.JPG" width="426" /></a></div>
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Another land owner quite happy for us to go through his land</div>
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to put on the Chimbu River</div>
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We
hastily got our gear together, as the longer you take the larger the
crowd becomes, and prepared to put on the river. Toni, our driver, would
see us off then drive back down to Gembogl Station and try and organise
some accommodation. He had to go back through a couple of the
road-blocks previously mentioned which concerned us as he would be by
himself with a lot of our gear. We had other things to focus on though,
uncharted class III - V in the remote Papua New Guinea Highlands. Not to
mention whether we'd be accepted by the locals or not. We were
optimistic and had a good feeling, so before long we pushed off the bank
and set off on what would be a trip of a life time.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4Yh5c39pvrZZrf_5cCzgBplfh7yz6BkFZkOocsc27B9-CwtUS18BcOBpo6rjJpxSiU6oI30FO8myaEDtTdCNM92bTmKmWpO8DVbOv_9adr1LO1q8RrQCBDsTGpWFVeAlxuzJ5sVJtp_RN/s1600/IMG_0674.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4Yh5c39pvrZZrf_5cCzgBplfh7yz6BkFZkOocsc27B9-CwtUS18BcOBpo6rjJpxSiU6oI30FO8myaEDtTdCNM92bTmKmWpO8DVbOv_9adr1LO1q8RrQCBDsTGpWFVeAlxuzJ5sVJtp_RN/s640/IMG_0674.JPG" width="640" /></a> </div>
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Colesy getting wet for the first time on the Chimbu</div>
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Things
felt right, logistics were working out pretty well and more amazingly
we were on the river about 5 days ahead of when I thought we would be.
The creek was very low volume but luckily it remained relatively
constricted so we had use of most the water. Many of the locals who
waved us off at Gembugl Bridge tried their best to keep up with our
progress downstream but soon no familiar faces were there. Instead we
could hear a communal cheer echoing down the valley, and once people
heard it they would flock to the river. Doing anything and everything to
get a view of the 'long-long (crazy) white-man'. This even drew the
people away from the road-blocks which left Toni with the road to
himself, so he comfortably made his way to Gembogl Station and set about
finding us somewhere secure to spend the night. For us it was all warm
waves and smiles, truly unbelievable. The white-water wasn't too bad
either, consistent class III+ with a few harder things here and there.
We took full advantage of this warm-up section, reacquainting ourselves
with out kayaks and our beloved white-water. After a couple of
kilometres we made it down to a small wooden foot-bridge, a good vantage
point for a photo I thought.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSinhWY3RvvU5hIOg1Okti006XOLyL3yUpv1II5dqJqbl44Xbcye4gwK8oPD3jvFzE1ue2qWPuXhPjjYYEIvF-luBpjBbuK4ABXEAYWfNqlubrN_Zoi9IQUaStPo7MpuVhpkKnr9BW0yL_/s1600/IMG_0786.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSinhWY3RvvU5hIOg1Okti006XOLyL3yUpv1II5dqJqbl44Xbcye4gwK8oPD3jvFzE1ue2qWPuXhPjjYYEIvF-luBpjBbuK4ABXEAYWfNqlubrN_Zoi9IQUaStPo7MpuVhpkKnr9BW0yL_/s640/IMG_0786.JPG" width="426" /></a> </div>
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Cruisy but some goods for sure</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0CiYgJ7ScQPZM4S-X_diwTqugAF4qRByHZeMCfgyg7OVq0mAZa_eNk2F9goGlmZIXQ46XhCkceV7PjNIoyNjDJkfN71b4ZFEPgfJirnZFp1Ye7A2U7E2_dSRJhNYWOXEOO8J3_CqsM2AB/s1600/DSC07908.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0CiYgJ7ScQPZM4S-X_diwTqugAF4qRByHZeMCfgyg7OVq0mAZa_eNk2F9goGlmZIXQ46XhCkceV7PjNIoyNjDJkfN71b4ZFEPgfJirnZFp1Ye7A2U7E2_dSRJhNYWOXEOO8J3_CqsM2AB/s640/DSC07908.jpg" width="640" /></a> </div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
Barny keeping up relations (p. Ari Walker NOT Matt Coles)</div>
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<div style="text-align: justify;">
So
I eddied out and walked up into a very well-kept garden and was greeted
by familiar grin of Toni. He was just talking to the owner, whom ill
introduce later, about accommodating us for the evening. Thing's seemed
to be going well but I definitely was keen to paddle some more, even if
it meant driving back to stay at this place. I asked how far was it to
the Gembogl Station Bridge and they said it was about another kilometre.
I had noted from the drive up the primary school right next to the main
bridge in the village and thought it would be a cool place to finish
the day... by stirring up all the village children. We'd get that AND a
whole lot more. The boys shared my enthusiasm so we carried on down a
bit further, which would turn out to be one of the highlights of the
trip. </div>
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<br /></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLPhSPZuz7kkcmSYnc4hldz1HL_5BJrHayp3fsJCM3H1tYjy8ago4vq_PmxF1Y6bB0E1DMXSGdeQI4NYlEE0HajGKhyphenhyphenWezNVHUPsDv4EoeFiirZ3eAVnde2XVZGM-RUVHXKIo6seuZHvB1/s1600/IMG_8111.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLPhSPZuz7kkcmSYnc4hldz1HL_5BJrHayp3fsJCM3H1tYjy8ago4vq_PmxF1Y6bB0E1DMXSGdeQI4NYlEE0HajGKhyphenhyphenWezNVHUPsDv4EoeFiirZ3eAVnde2XVZGM-RUVHXKIo6seuZHvB1/s640/IMG_8111.JPG" width="426" /></a> </div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
Colesy keen to carry on down</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjkalkD25Je4THW5g3eItDoJPfpn8ZJd_9f-BKwG5Cnybce1mrjbaM93Spyns_annZkbDQRm8g4h4-DZXoQT30U0nmjpLIZRPBpeZG5QXNcidW6g46B3R_bXkycES5YgrrkM2-uUZ81Orb/s1600/IMG_0731.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjkalkD25Je4THW5g3eItDoJPfpn8ZJd_9f-BKwG5Cnybce1mrjbaM93Spyns_annZkbDQRm8g4h4-DZXoQT30U0nmjpLIZRPBpeZG5QXNcidW6g46B3R_bXkycES5YgrrkM2-uUZ81Orb/s640/IMG_0731.JPG" width="640" /></a> </div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
Ari leading... surely not!</div>
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<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYwy1lAkM_-Kb2nYNVplfM3UdCVRGBzsP5DM3Yhy_fEjCwhcLCGsPExD38FSN5SJnk8WqdMOZtDG-a7lMiyYqDQgvwqQG_3fx0bwImc-qmQM7CY6Io4-Ubbm8_aAqiMaU-WLEBsFqEFW3h/s1600/IMG_0720.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYwy1lAkM_-Kb2nYNVplfM3UdCVRGBzsP5DM3Yhy_fEjCwhcLCGsPExD38FSN5SJnk8WqdMOZtDG-a7lMiyYqDQgvwqQG_3fx0bwImc-qmQM7CY6Io4-Ubbm8_aAqiMaU-WLEBsFqEFW3h/s640/IMG_0720.JPG" width="426" /></a> </div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
It's true!</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
We carried on, and things just got
better and better. Almost immediately downstream of the bridge that
large trib we seen earlier came in almost doubling the flow and the
river stepped up a bit to mainly class IV. The best thing, however,
would be our reception to Gembogl Station itself. I fell slightly behind
with Ari as I done some filming and tried to give a kid a ride on my
kayak, but when we rounded the final corner before the bridge I couldn't
believe my eyes. The banks of the river were literally full of people, I
am talking close to 1,000 people. The news of our presence had passed
us while we stopped at the small bridge and the town was buzzing with
anticipation. The school had emptied and the cheering was almost
deafening. We knew there was a low log-bridge downstream and thought
we'd be taking out above it, but getting caught up in the moment I
thought about flipping over and floating under it then rolling up
downstream. I bounced the idea off Matt who was sitting on the opposite
side of the river, with a better vantage point I was hoping. He gave me a
'shrug/nod', I took this as a 'solid yes' and pulled back out into the
current. Floating down children were cheering while they chased me and
concerned adults urged me to come to the side. As I approached the log
there was plenty of room to float under so I tucked up and flipped
upside down. I gave myself plenty of time to clear the log, but just
before I was about to roll I smashed into some submerged rocks. I rolled
up all good and the pain in my shoulder wained to the overwhelming
excitement and adoration that the locals were showering us in. Matt and
Barny followed suit, both hitting the rocks but were un-phased as the
whole experience was so awesome. That said, none of us were that keen on
doing it again.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-0DOv-ufuIE4EBhFL5xYfCNQDBqwkve4waxCTADk0_q_J2de064jOUXdUzdsd9jzY_uaTbJaHmwlEbmB-K_2UqU9IEhF42IhxoTSSOE3AiSChbEep0tZolBxisaTbA717omSxBpAVE2Hk/s1600/IMG_0759.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-0DOv-ufuIE4EBhFL5xYfCNQDBqwkve4waxCTADk0_q_J2de064jOUXdUzdsd9jzY_uaTbJaHmwlEbmB-K_2UqU9IEhF42IhxoTSSOE3AiSChbEep0tZolBxisaTbA717omSxBpAVE2Hk/s640/IMG_0759.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
Ducking under the log, this is actually from the next day where we didn't</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
completely turn over. Didnt want to hit the rocks again!</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPrppbhP91QBFJFHDprTs5puehMZ0n6vjeiuk6GCYg2VW2_Bg0Ggv19b3S6mFBJK6qvqi0HVBdBfG4k4ZwEAG0PY-zj_2LHYmxojXbTte5M_GpabU5-Sv6OBYAmAjnHgpfOBk7bkTUTGvO/s1600/IMG_0767.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPrppbhP91QBFJFHDprTs5puehMZ0n6vjeiuk6GCYg2VW2_Bg0Ggv19b3S6mFBJK6qvqi0HVBdBfG4k4ZwEAG0PY-zj_2LHYmxojXbTte5M_GpabU5-Sv6OBYAmAjnHgpfOBk7bkTUTGvO/s640/IMG_0767.JPG" width="426" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
Again the next day, still a lot of people on the banks but</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
nothing compared to the first day.</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
We
had to keep our guard up though, so once we took off the river we
quickly jammed our gear onto the Hilux and drove back towards to where
we met Toni earlier, to the Gembogl Orphans Resource Centre. This was a
facility managed by Willie and his partner Pat, which provides shelter,
funding, support and anything else they could to help support the
numerous orphans in the area as a result of aids. This place was
beautiful, like a piece of paradise tucked up in the PNG Highlands. We
were assured that our gear wouldn't be messed with and we were free to
explore the area. Toni had pulled through and then some! So we hung out
our gear and then spent the afternoon hanging out in probably the most
relaxed fashion of the whole trip. Matt, Ari and myself walked across
and hung out with some children at the neighbouring school and Barny
talked the afternoon away with Willie and some other interested people. </div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJp_5o-5Ak9n77uqpImI5nV6yPjEw6ci2ov0I6Ncbo0RFwBptTyyrmkZPnineI5CgvXA6Pj_yQSYt4vrvbHl5jYSSFLdnzkX01ZFVZ6rtSl_LbLYckIptl54plShk_yMnzqIy3UK-OLYku/s1600/IMG_8123.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJp_5o-5Ak9n77uqpImI5nV6yPjEw6ci2ov0I6Ncbo0RFwBptTyyrmkZPnineI5CgvXA6Pj_yQSYt4vrvbHl5jYSSFLdnzkX01ZFVZ6rtSl_LbLYckIptl54plShk_yMnzqIy3UK-OLYku/s640/IMG_8123.JPG" width="640" /></a> </div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
Just a few of the spectators, they love New Zealand</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTxnenIZA55nf_UU-hVD4i1CxhnUWRjrS7r2Z-Tc79fg0KIYQWDVuYjHMZoZbGu_V01VkCN2kTM918Fon_0-i4FkrJA9oOTo_GHR2A6R_QDhSSMrgEYPymMiYbfgzbW9LI1-xs6dzxxLho/s1600/IMG_8134.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTxnenIZA55nf_UU-hVD4i1CxhnUWRjrS7r2Z-Tc79fg0KIYQWDVuYjHMZoZbGu_V01VkCN2kTM918Fon_0-i4FkrJA9oOTo_GHR2A6R_QDhSSMrgEYPymMiYbfgzbW9LI1-xs6dzxxLho/s640/IMG_8134.JPG" width="640" /></a> </div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
This hoard of children chased us for like a kilometre</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrK7_y7vJW_IjyO3NxU0hlN_08IbeOftVRqj4frE5L-hOaZMxW2HEcmbc7GuO-l2OYSG5uP3ntiQXsDFGzdN5TQTg7ig0VSKGRRnVPUckBEri4KSA0YX5MjiAvaZy2T-yN83rsPwYEvFkz/s1600/DSC07962.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrK7_y7vJW_IjyO3NxU0hlN_08IbeOftVRqj4frE5L-hOaZMxW2HEcmbc7GuO-l2OYSG5uP3ntiQXsDFGzdN5TQTg7ig0VSKGRRnVPUckBEri4KSA0YX5MjiAvaZy2T-yN83rsPwYEvFkz/s640/DSC07962.jpg" width="640" /></a> </div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
Throwing the local kids around</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
So we hung out
our gear and then spent the afternoon hanging out in probably the most
relaxed fashion of the whole trip. Matt, Ari and myself walked across
and hung out with some children at the neighbouring school and Barny
talked the afternoon away with Willie and some other interested people. </div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgR1g123N9a_TJLzlnl_PlfjbJcWVxxFenCEnDacJ6UvvqmQq6UHkwvlFAg0-I4TNY8cfLo67-DyqykBdZZwVjhXHeV1J6g0FKith2wLnnp_UpycxMSxvICtuFRmj6DNQJSuSutxY7AZyqV/s1600/IMG_8175.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgR1g123N9a_TJLzlnl_PlfjbJcWVxxFenCEnDacJ6UvvqmQq6UHkwvlFAg0-I4TNY8cfLo67-DyqykBdZZwVjhXHeV1J6g0FKith2wLnnp_UpycxMSxvICtuFRmj6DNQJSuSutxY7AZyqV/s640/IMG_8175.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
You don't need much to live and even have fun, a constant reminder while you're in</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
PNG</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7a-gHAN3Mibaa__NPEzIAeAD38OQMvtR1KmkUcoX7nzf5IWR2KsWkP0z0LG5TZDlAqaVrFMsrHHyw-YKL29QfgiKiU5grVSUe_r3rSDZx-P2OnZ5d5SvpoOX6zB0gSCJOEDyowbl1IXRX/s1600/IMG_8231.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7a-gHAN3Mibaa__NPEzIAeAD38OQMvtR1KmkUcoX7nzf5IWR2KsWkP0z0LG5TZDlAqaVrFMsrHHyw-YKL29QfgiKiU5grVSUe_r3rSDZx-P2OnZ5d5SvpoOX6zB0gSCJOEDyowbl1IXRX/s640/IMG_8231.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
Ari trying to make the kids laught to death?</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhILQ9mdFeHQDy2x8QuNMPIjhngsbwCTrsELVLKDHwIPcE907HpxOdESdMzn0T-0UCMoUkcpQ2mJXXyUlFuyOwK6fzVGTWyAJEkVkSmfneiLvWP8Q4WVKi0TMCMk3OWFaZeIAkhHlq_QPWX/s1600/IMG_8277.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhILQ9mdFeHQDy2x8QuNMPIjhngsbwCTrsELVLKDHwIPcE907HpxOdESdMzn0T-0UCMoUkcpQ2mJXXyUlFuyOwK6fzVGTWyAJEkVkSmfneiLvWP8Q4WVKi0TMCMk3OWFaZeIAkhHlq_QPWX/s640/IMG_8277.JPG" width="640" /></a> </div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
New toy for the kids </div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4uyoQYUrtyzZXxWPp2GdQcwHtZGXnPimL5q6ojFz6dRxlYZ63XZYmiaUXbSGXxcfG0MROXj-0Icy0R0zCO4lqgcIa7F9eqJmIsKJWp2aCwRrufa0x7R885_3gMRp1ICYOe5vt9ZBxEGbW/s1600/IMG_8165.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4uyoQYUrtyzZXxWPp2GdQcwHtZGXnPimL5q6ojFz6dRxlYZ63XZYmiaUXbSGXxcfG0MROXj-0Icy0R0zCO4lqgcIa7F9eqJmIsKJWp2aCwRrufa0x7R885_3gMRp1ICYOe5vt9ZBxEGbW/s640/IMG_8165.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
Stock standard tourist photo?</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
We
were sharing a dorm-style room with some other guests, BSP (Bank of the
South Pacific) rural managers, who were very interested in our
impression of their area and country. All positive although we both
agreed that PNG wasn't for the faint hearted. Next our dinner was
served, yes served even though we repeatedly insisted on cooking but Pat
(very motherly figure) wouldn't have a bar of it. The meal was great,
back-country's with roast potato, rice and something else I'm pretty
sure but something wasn't quite right. Where was EVERYONE else. It felt
almost like eating in lunch-time detention, not another soul was even
audible. So after we crushed the huge amount of food before us, Wild
Bill leading the eating charge, I took the dishes with the intention of
making sure I done them. I found everyone out the back it an thatched
hut where they were cooking on a open fire. Much more our style, but
before I would settle it I would do the dishes... Again I failed, Pat
dismissing my good intentions like it wasn't even an option. So I sat
down for what would be an long evening of cups of tea and talking around
the open fire, only interrupted every now and again by someone
'shhhhhhhhh' ing a dog out. The dark slowly crept in and the fire
eventually burnt down to an amber glow, it was time to get some much
needed sleep as we were hoping to get all the way to Banana Market the
next day. The boys went up to the dorm but I decided to sleep in my
tent, trading the orchestra of snores for the sounds of the jungle and
the calming sound of the river. </div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjn6hGGG9M25Wn9MJx5SiCKYT0DcSxiDrILwBXipANcExxFjsEI4cnAMGxldIB0Bf8VeTVjo5wMVRDDVy1-AYJ1bRWSEN1B-2oDGX_vw0dI4LB_Mazq8pumVRLLGH33kJoOD9LbpCZQhZ_h/s1600/DSC07944.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjn6hGGG9M25Wn9MJx5SiCKYT0DcSxiDrILwBXipANcExxFjsEI4cnAMGxldIB0Bf8VeTVjo5wMVRDDVy1-AYJ1bRWSEN1B-2oDGX_vw0dI4LB_Mazq8pumVRLLGH33kJoOD9LbpCZQhZ_h/s640/DSC07944.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
Gembogl Orphanes Resourse Centre - an amazing place where all are welcome</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Tomorrow was going to be good... </div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Part Two coming soon.</div>
GW Boyshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13039561902337322202noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3324627131474181714.post-82997906465866651462013-07-24T20:19:00.002-07:002013-07-24T20:19:31.183-07:00Grand Canyons of the Chimbu - From New Zealand to Kundiawa<div style="text-align: justify;">
Twenty-five days after departing
for Papua New Guinea we have returned unscathed, healthy and stoked with
what we've achieved... the First Descent of the Grand Canyons of the
Chimbu. An amazing feat considering the potential pitfalls of executing
such a trip, and now I will attempt to tell the tale of the second
'Gradient and Water' expedition. I think its important to start from the
very beginning to paint the picture for those who do not know the
history, crew and plan of the expedition. After quickly filling this
little contextual void I will take you from Christchurch to Kundiawa,
driving from the West Coast of New Zealand, three flights, nine hours
driving into the highlands, some paddling, a little conflict and then
some last minute preparation for our attempt on the Chimbu.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
In
2011 Barny Young, Shannon Mast and Myself (Jordan Searle) completed the
first 'Gradient and Water' kayaking expedition to Papua New Guinea. For
a country with endless whitewater potential, considering topography and
climate, there had been little previous whitewater exploration. We'd
heard rumours of failed expedition from a UK group and a German group
that achieved a few things but no one had really done PNG justice. A
National Geographic funded group had a successful trip to West New
Britain, an island off the coast of the PNG mainland. It was the
Highlands, however, that had our attention and that was where we'd be
going. Well, that's where we went after exhausting all our options in
the Morobe province (3 First Descents) and had no other plausible option
but to strap on the back of the truck and head into the Highlands.
During this risky 2 week probe into the Highlands, we achieved great
things but one thing that we didn't achieve was a descent of the Chimbu
River. Our first attempt we went in haphazardly as we'd heard that some
rafts had done the river in the past. This was true, sort of. A rafting
attempt was foiled as the whitewater was too full on and they were
eventually carried out. So after some full on paddling, brutal portaging
and then arriving at another box canyon we had to hike out of the
river. Broken and defeated. To make things hurt even more, we came back a
few days later and committed to the Sikewage Gorge but Barny ended up
swimming and losing his kayak, once again forcing us off the river and
leaving a metaphorical thorn in our sides. This thorn, however, would
be the motivation for our 2013 expedition. </div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaR-W9tHqMIBNWe3-_TQyMbvHYhm8YFfz1q38gKo7kns4NLAAujc36CiYXQ25o_Ww2oODmEZsq0UzTwqA8FS6i193ehbU2M4TNkKqsWhs2gQ70YRuUofEl8xtK835ITUXwH0L0ZRAVknw8/s1600/IMG_0975.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaR-W9tHqMIBNWe3-_TQyMbvHYhm8YFfz1q38gKo7kns4NLAAujc36CiYXQ25o_Ww2oODmEZsq0UzTwqA8FS6i193ehbU2M4TNkKqsWhs2gQ70YRuUofEl8xtK835ITUXwH0L0ZRAVknw8/s640/IMG_0975.JPG" width="640" /></a> </div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
Barny coming undone in 2011</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6Jw6KQSYh3pEEloPAwIjVBiEW3PUthKayofH_6n1-P5dAeAQ1fzJDUR9-gVK-DrmjMLjlBdCFGi5QoXo96ioLWqlho-ugnhFkkOSnVDbIL1t6s3FM_4Z6-FxvQX-uVHL5siKDw4fzlcse/s1600/IMG_0751.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6Jw6KQSYh3pEEloPAwIjVBiEW3PUthKayofH_6n1-P5dAeAQ1fzJDUR9-gVK-DrmjMLjlBdCFGi5QoXo96ioLWqlho-ugnhFkkOSnVDbIL1t6s3FM_4Z6-FxvQX-uVHL5siKDw4fzlcse/s640/IMG_0751.JPG" width="426" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
Barny routing 'Kick-Right Falls' in 2011</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
So
when initially planning our return to Papua New Guinea I really wanted
to take the original crew of Barny Young, Shannon Mast and Myself. This,
unfortunately, was not to be as Shannon was unable to commit to the
trip which left a big void in the team. The show had to go on, so after
racking our minds for a while for who would be a suitable replacement
for Shannon we extended some invitations to our good friends. And we got
more than we bargained for. Matt Coles, pretty much Shannon's
understudy, threw his hat in the ring almost immediately but had to wait
and see when he would be beginning his helicopter license. Not too long
after this I was chatting to Ari Walker about his plans and with almost
not arm twisting he committed to the trip, transferring his
contribution pretty much the next day. Shannon's spot was now filled and
we could now move on with our planning. THEN, only days later, Matt
found out he was able to start his training in October which meant he
would be able to come. After a considering the logistical difference of
taking another paddler we figured, 'why not'. So our team was set, 4
instead of 3 and it would be Matt and Ari's first experience of
expedition kayaking. </div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFu_b4pAmOl_jDsF8SXyuKa0f-TmcLWkn2lExruutPoP3ptkZk06YCp-IwYBF2CcY0A2P61TQ0zCZbDHYtSXFxZRIOLgELelkTQ_0B_v0tFUOZH8DrXHwOjICeWTo0BeW1IvozQ3pogIse/s1600/IMG_1105.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFu_b4pAmOl_jDsF8SXyuKa0f-TmcLWkn2lExruutPoP3ptkZk06YCp-IwYBF2CcY0A2P61TQ0zCZbDHYtSXFxZRIOLgELelkTQ_0B_v0tFUOZH8DrXHwOjICeWTo0BeW1IvozQ3pogIse/s640/IMG_1105.JPG" width="640" /></a> The original expedition team of 2011</div>
<br />
<div style="text-align: justify;">
The
plan was simple. Get as far up the Chimbu River as possible/permitted
and have a safe descent down through the numerous canyons to Kundiawa.
Obviously there was a lot more to it than that, and that is what you're
about to read.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcuu2ENSN6Kpu9QqQIW8KuMaHDyGu8TpX4e5T7D6PamjIWF6ysZXf4JU9q91r8OenWq0EwEziNTsseFphDOGAyKFW9LydvhOo1taWzF49YOuJ_X5tI8_lVWBAIyGVVmYK2cI7GowCzRM2z/s1600/DSC07728.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcuu2ENSN6Kpu9QqQIW8KuMaHDyGu8TpX4e5T7D6PamjIWF6ysZXf4JU9q91r8OenWq0EwEziNTsseFphDOGAyKFW9LydvhOo1taWzF49YOuJ_X5tI8_lVWBAIyGVVmYK2cI7GowCzRM2z/s640/DSC07728.jpg" width="640" /></a> </div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
Watching the boats be loaded, we did this for every flight.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Our
team was flying out of Christchurch on May 3rd, so I made my way over a
day or so earlier just to ensure everything was sorted. Barny and Ari
had the same idea, so went spent the last day or so working through the
last little things. Two things were off, one I had forgotten to bring
the Back Country meals for the trip and where was Matt? My flat mate,
Jon Slater, sorted out the forgotten meals with a same day courier and
at about the time the meals arrived we received a txt from Matt... he'd
been on a multi-day paddling trip on the West Coast and had just got off
the river. 5pm, wet gear, 5 or so hours driving. Would he make it, we
hoped so but weren't to sure. So the night before our 6am flight we went
to sleep with the alarm set for 3:15am and Colesy had a long night
ahead. Which he pulled off. We arrived at the airport around 3:45am and
Matt was there waiting with no other than Shannon Mast, which was quite
fitting. We checked in our luggage, four 32kg kayaks (full of gear) at
$80 each and two bags, and we were on the mission. A flight through
Brisbane, expensive food to say the least, then onto Port Moresby.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8Uvd6FO4CBviOEfhfrAJ-RpEdXtyt7YgCIVj2VEQRV8QKRfnjqE_0kNJdNXaGQe4nu4w48dEgqhCGVJnk0MSF-ZUmUj32SMEhijLwNwCWjMfcpnyiPtmGpKapKEslE8uChFcxd4mQ_VYH/s1600/DSC07722.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="532" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8Uvd6FO4CBviOEfhfrAJ-RpEdXtyt7YgCIVj2VEQRV8QKRfnjqE_0kNJdNXaGQe4nu4w48dEgqhCGVJnk0MSF-ZUmUj32SMEhijLwNwCWjMfcpnyiPtmGpKapKEslE8uChFcxd4mQ_VYH/s640/DSC07722.jpg" width="640" /></a> </div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
Thankfully Slate got these too us.</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Even
though we knew it was coming, the heat and humidity was a shock to the
system once we got off the aeroplane. Its always around 30-32 degrees
celcius and 2000% percent humidity, well not that much humidity but you
know what im saying. Once we arrived we were straight into it, almost
getting hustled for 100Kina (about $50NZD) at the cellphone retailer and
then waiting in the domestic terminal for a couple of hours. Much to
our surprise, our flight did depart on time and our boats were loaded,
we were definitely watching. Our flight was good, the complementary
shortbread tasted great and after the forty-five minute flight over the
Owen Stanley Range we landed safely at Nadzap - Lae International
Airport. A modest airport, about the same size as the Hokitika Airport,
surrounded in the typical razor-wire and security guards that are
uniform around most structures in PNG. Our gear all arrived, our pick-up
was prompt thanks to our friend Murrey Fletcher (a bad-ass ex-pat
Australian come PNG National who hooks it up) and we were soon cruising
back to Lae in the all too familiar situation of sitting on the back of
the truck. Its funny, it had been more than two years since our last
expedition but once we were there it felt like we had never left. Almost
felt as if Barny and I had just gone to pick up Ari and Matt and we
were just continuing our last expedition. Just under and hour later we
arrived back to Murrey's house, in the dodgy Chinatown suburb, and
unloaded. Reacquainting ourselves with the 6m x 3m room that we based
ourselves out of in 2011. That night someone had the typical first night
in PNG freak-out in their sleep, Ari I think, but we all slept well and
awoke with great enthusiasm... time to get on the mission!</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiT8BWkVsWIXlewvGfL50sIlTIX0eIAOenKVwqBKTbF9-p-ATydKo6AHmC-N4okTep6oAdE9h5GpVY6MnbYXuyvk6sgm7fTR8AOWZA_P7Y-B3JCmqkXkKikHrnawvHDEPwdcxzivFE6ZbJU/s1600/IMG_0513.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiT8BWkVsWIXlewvGfL50sIlTIX0eIAOenKVwqBKTbF9-p-ATydKo6AHmC-N4okTep6oAdE9h5GpVY6MnbYXuyvk6sgm7fTR8AOWZA_P7Y-B3JCmqkXkKikHrnawvHDEPwdcxzivFE6ZbJU/s640/IMG_0513.JPG" width="640" /></a> Matt going into the darkess... literally.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Well
that's what everyone else thought, but I knew/thought the process of
lining up a vehicle would take some time so was ready to just take it
easy for a few days while things work themselves out. Arriving on a
Friday wasn't the best idea as it quickly became apparent that things
would be much harder to work out over the weekend. We got the balling
rolling though, meeting with our well connected national friend Reuben
Mete. Who then introduced us to Papi, even equally or even more connect
man is Lae. We chatted for a while, blew off the extortion like price
that was first suggested and told Papi what we paid and done last time.
He said he would sort it, so we left it at that. Nothing definitive but
it is PNG. Walking home we found an actual car hire place where we got a
quote, which would be good for negotiating the price of a vehicle with
Papi and co. Come Monday 9am however, after a few prompting phone calls,
Papi pulled through by lining us up a Hilux for a pleasing price. Not
to mention, the price was set. No last minute this, or the rate is
actually that. It was set. Also, Barny noticed one tyre was particularly
worn and they replaced it immediately. All too good to be true, nope!
By noon that day we were on our way towards Kundiawa, three days ahead
of what I thought would be our schedule and with Tony, our driver for
the trip. A little more timid that Graham from 2011, but Tony would turn
out to be a clutch member of our expedition. With some extra time in
hand I thought it would make sense to get some time on the water and
there just happened to be an amazing section of river on the way, the
Mai River. First though, we had about 6 or 7 hours of sitting on the
back of a truck while Tony ripped along the pot-hole ridden road and
even had a shower of rain to contend with. All good though, that's what
an expedition is all about. </div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqMQMgb9QWe-u0a2nu1pfanDgdS0wkeeNXK7UZuk_PabPDxpSSXA_jdYFzyjTYUeuCAyYST9Q_Ce9J_HvZJasMWI4a0Ofxs7fD6YeIeauRn9Y3uVDRhsxBe3Fj_HldRyylNFUN_mAemqDI/s1600/DSC07736.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="540" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqMQMgb9QWe-u0a2nu1pfanDgdS0wkeeNXK7UZuk_PabPDxpSSXA_jdYFzyjTYUeuCAyYST9Q_Ce9J_HvZJasMWI4a0Ofxs7fD6YeIeauRn9Y3uVDRhsxBe3Fj_HldRyylNFUN_mAemqDI/s640/DSC07736.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
Loaded up and ready for the mission, picking up supplies from Food Mart.</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhiXv5MAr3coC9l73HXjF2S4OoUiWSNpYUgwEX3wwtEekVY8mx3hN_7rLMwQN4nSftLPCtO36kUZGP5mTHvs2Ph21t-Fs3LsDWh7rPllogxdfB8RhbyBJGcfRuXWbublh3hpUK0256pxgL/s1600/IMG_7854.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhiXv5MAr3coC9l73HXjF2S4OoUiWSNpYUgwEX3wwtEekVY8mx3hN_7rLMwQN4nSftLPCtO36kUZGP5mTHvs2Ph21t-Fs3LsDWh7rPllogxdfB8RhbyBJGcfRuXWbublh3hpUK0256pxgL/s640/IMG_7854.JPG" width="640" /></a> Ari 'Beiber' Walker.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMiwJ2ZS43ajRHHj6JwGBsEzBzCPMsacHpUj3QsKyulmF-35hjJ5CpZfwjbLuHipsnX2mppQdwKVI2qCL-Q-ZxY1c5aVM54lT85XKQPxaffYk0_OnNrDW1OcjNCjZGHP_MjF26qmzEhcP7/s1600/DSC07746.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMiwJ2ZS43ajRHHj6JwGBsEzBzCPMsacHpUj3QsKyulmF-35hjJ5CpZfwjbLuHipsnX2mppQdwKVI2qCL-Q-ZxY1c5aVM54lT85XKQPxaffYk0_OnNrDW1OcjNCjZGHP_MjF26qmzEhcP7/s640/DSC07746.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
Local markets that border the road.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAu_Mm0Z7MMmPMh3j1DmSjj5GTZ_lEBxA4cFTbqUvh2acoG-1qDKmSQ7sbb6CaFYbliEAlCX46Kyu7FmzOPViTbb-ChiA446K5seuJpiwTgUxVT64ok5m5OIHSL-dbVkc7USmkgCIl9Gbd/s1600/IMG_7857.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAu_Mm0Z7MMmPMh3j1DmSjj5GTZ_lEBxA4cFTbqUvh2acoG-1qDKmSQ7sbb6CaFYbliEAlCX46Kyu7FmzOPViTbb-ChiA446K5seuJpiwTgUxVT64ok5m5OIHSL-dbVkc7USmkgCIl9Gbd/s640/IMG_7857.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
Matt being an ambassador.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEht0h6HjGgfLKDWxOJhu-IX3n2limOEMMMLtH_bobPcVZhqvwjzmrMAw2RkbFaEfcJgy-8I6kZLR1MaxfUzWSn0fZnMU288klREuNHqn0eY0xiSNJ-KUo8Esf6AYPWPtkWvgeP40ZmgxfQS/s1600/DSC_2540.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEht0h6HjGgfLKDWxOJhu-IX3n2limOEMMMLtH_bobPcVZhqvwjzmrMAw2RkbFaEfcJgy-8I6kZLR1MaxfUzWSn0fZnMU288klREuNHqn0eY0xiSNJ-KUo8Esf6AYPWPtkWvgeP40ZmgxfQS/s640/DSC_2540.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
Caught out in the rain!</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
We
arrived to the Chuave area in the evening so decided to stay at the
Tama Siane guest house, where we spent a few nights last time with John
and Hanna. They were stoked to see we were back and gave us a
great rate for accommodating five guys. We ate well, slept even better
and were fired up to be paddling the next day. </div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
- Matt woke up...<br />
<br />
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Arriving
at the
confluence of Koningi Creek and the Mai River, we were greeted by
numerous people that remembered us being there two years earlier. Smiles
and adoration, it was nice to be back. We didn't take long to get ready
though, our eagerness was uncontrollable. Barny and I put on knowing
what to expect, but Ari and Matt were in for a surprise. From the outset
is it class IV-V with the warming cheer of children running down the
river bank trying to get a peak at these 'long-long' or crazy whiteman.
What a good way to prepare for the Chimbu. But Barny and myself had
other things in mind. The cherry on top for the Mai River is a technical
waterfall at the end of the run called 'Kick-Right Falls', aptly named
by Barny after we all paddled it in 2011. Once we got down to it,
however, our hears sunk a little as the lower flow meant that the line
was a lot tighter AND there was now a log across the entrance that would
of been submerged at a higher flow. So we all decided that it wasn't to
be on this trip and decided to hike back up to the bridge, but not
before running into an old friend Joseph. I'm not too sure if it the
same boy, but Barny thinks is the same boy that told him, "I am your
friend, please don't die" before Barny paddled Kick-Right in 2011.
Anyway, Joseph set to telling us about a recent incident where 3 women
accused of Sorcery were thrown from the bridge with stones attached to
their ankles and then went on to point to the area that police recovered
their bodies. This was okay though as he reassured us that this meant
that there were no witches in the area. This is a sad reality for some
places in PNG as people do not understand why young people die even
though aids and other diseases are prevalent in the area, so it is
blamed on sorcery which sets of a series of killings and retributions.
We shock this off and had to get on with it, you've got to have a thick
skin in PNG. </div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBUy4EQqkfC5akkTlntD0u024su4SKAwP-mmNqj9KXnDuTq94cyyeWwtcp_t4rmhMarGWD2hvNjibzfFP11nW3Qr-QOsAWj5rgz5Bjv-oBmUY8sXaccg38izr3rTMJpGBRhqS9yZmuIZcg/s1600/IMG_7946.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBUy4EQqkfC5akkTlntD0u024su4SKAwP-mmNqj9KXnDuTq94cyyeWwtcp_t4rmhMarGWD2hvNjibzfFP11nW3Qr-QOsAWj5rgz5Bjv-oBmUY8sXaccg38izr3rTMJpGBRhqS9yZmuIZcg/s640/IMG_7946.JPG" width="640" /></a> Tama Siane Guest-House.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_-19NuUWQFkNCDx3WS8savKiRSf2s0RRoIZqykTqrNAeUxqr9o4xbMlgdHRyflAMzjk6gmlkFVCJJ3DmGUEFo7QvE5o7uEOmk19I9eZ4nHUUG0jRuecdFpwPBNlecCUVras46AFV-hRfP/s1600/IMG_7874.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_-19NuUWQFkNCDx3WS8savKiRSf2s0RRoIZqykTqrNAeUxqr9o4xbMlgdHRyflAMzjk6gmlkFVCJJ3DmGUEFo7QvE5o7uEOmk19I9eZ4nHUUG0jRuecdFpwPBNlecCUVras46AFV-hRfP/s640/IMG_7874.JPG" width="640" /></a> Dinner... </div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidEbk5zptRYCrCjNAfR5ldSepWuaquUqq4sNWf05XnFIWrdW0PzTTVtBPvugfA2HbJuDcSTj1JbhBUnvpiCWPjeTWUdmj9CTTWOMR9uUHvDdRwlIpgX9fUP9HpFaVMdCJBsPXxTh4DPGf6/s1600/IMG_7886.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidEbk5zptRYCrCjNAfR5ldSepWuaquUqq4sNWf05XnFIWrdW0PzTTVtBPvugfA2HbJuDcSTj1JbhBUnvpiCWPjeTWUdmj9CTTWOMR9uUHvDdRwlIpgX9fUP9HpFaVMdCJBsPXxTh4DPGf6/s640/IMG_7886.JPG" width="426" /></a> </div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
Barny and Ari relaxing. </div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjn2XaRrs_SlhlLTvxrGGt-LaJWNXTabK9hMVKm1JLduJw204X7gFF0kqVz6Y2jC8qYKNxmKP0rxkM5tk1sYYYCtPb3A8BqXvwsBICxeGNDw7htSWUd9qw4uzedZ1i3xhfLXeqvthf46B-H/s1600/DSC07784.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjn2XaRrs_SlhlLTvxrGGt-LaJWNXTabK9hMVKm1JLduJw204X7gFF0kqVz6Y2jC8qYKNxmKP0rxkM5tk1sYYYCtPb3A8BqXvwsBICxeGNDw7htSWUd9qw4uzedZ1i3xhfLXeqvthf46B-H/s640/DSC07784.jpg" width="424" /></a> </div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
Morning view at Tama Siane</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJtmra7vRqrrbUjrAVZ9N3e2Xjq6Aa_8TDVayWvnH1wHzZ-aSfAYj7CHZShBKmGUS12tubQ-1Mv_kW3o9bsIL_KuqpaIyqtcpe7Z4ZaF8ziqgAkT0qCIgasShXeEQhUSgA50aRGv7Hk5sP/s1600/IMG_0537.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJtmra7vRqrrbUjrAVZ9N3e2Xjq6Aa_8TDVayWvnH1wHzZ-aSfAYj7CHZShBKmGUS12tubQ-1Mv_kW3o9bsIL_KuqpaIyqtcpe7Z4ZaF8ziqgAkT0qCIgasShXeEQhUSgA50aRGv7Hk5sP/s640/IMG_0537.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
Matt on the initial rapids of the Mai.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfonicULBpute93X0ms2I4s_HvUvH0Z4D2pkkyAvsAUw4TfgwBZOsuSYmt5C44vm4FF1rTGtPqocG0i_SFH1neSPNMKC7mlOn1gkTlqw5JaQaqJjT7Wcb69z3LZ5Fsg6tYV_VoWaI3aw6u/s1600/IMG_0572.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfonicULBpute93X0ms2I4s_HvUvH0Z4D2pkkyAvsAUw4TfgwBZOsuSYmt5C44vm4FF1rTGtPqocG0i_SFH1neSPNMKC7mlOn1gkTlqw5JaQaqJjT7Wcb69z3LZ5Fsg6tYV_VoWaI3aw6u/s640/IMG_0572.JPG" width="640" /></a> We always gather attention wherever we go. </div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1BR0oD_tMWRCplS9Qh813dSCWSPZpxgcG7iymLrM2DM2v60bYgN6l42mLI70FshwdVi6-7zGI7Z01YvEGH1p-ncPdHehAarBN-v36xF9C88eC8UCAXaT0NWNy-YvZnywmyou6WPYsRhWy/s1600/IMG_0558.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1BR0oD_tMWRCplS9Qh813dSCWSPZpxgcG7iymLrM2DM2v60bYgN6l42mLI70FshwdVi6-7zGI7Z01YvEGH1p-ncPdHehAarBN-v36xF9C88eC8UCAXaT0NWNy-YvZnywmyou6WPYsRhWy/s640/IMG_0558.JPG" width="426" /></a> </div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
The people of PNG live by and along the river. </div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEju5tYAq0dWuGRMT8TyUNG9nlaabUF__h5GCBXrVp0lrGlXZZqqKt7Kpe9GARlNkd6s0SMe-5L-tKLgXzPaq6zSnTbqK9-tveIxGKuHBr01lrvvDH7aN1pJ8eDxJwGOZRx_hbRiXQzo_Wkn/s1600/DSC_2571.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEju5tYAq0dWuGRMT8TyUNG9nlaabUF__h5GCBXrVp0lrGlXZZqqKt7Kpe9GARlNkd6s0SMe-5L-tKLgXzPaq6zSnTbqK9-tveIxGKuHBr01lrvvDH7aN1pJ8eDxJwGOZRx_hbRiXQzo_Wkn/s640/DSC_2571.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
A massive cylinder making some of the whitewater. </div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiutpLoqdxw_-rqHvM5PtrTyxt_zjgme9V4FyxA3AkhFK9p69td6jqr85I-ygG7qunk61_MlM8LF-KQDqiR47L899wvu-68j78l0-0QJyXjIKW0wboN1iBkhFzIyL7OOvfZlQwXgwNPwT_0/s1600/IMG_7986.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiutpLoqdxw_-rqHvM5PtrTyxt_zjgme9V4FyxA3AkhFK9p69td6jqr85I-ygG7qunk61_MlM8LF-KQDqiR47L899wvu-68j78l0-0QJyXjIKW0wboN1iBkhFzIyL7OOvfZlQwXgwNPwT_0/s640/IMG_7986.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
A solitary fisherman wondering what the hell is going on. </div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiptsaBaUT8_RCP2-Wi7cKgwGjJPlZ9qtQlXW1uVCSrNv1gj2MqvzNAA5XWZiV7uM7dyY2u4tGW0uuNPbt5QXkvxa9um4KdfIUwjReDcut-6TcXXpd370cjoW6UIfen120o0Zo9UW4-4GIx/s1600/IMG_0653.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiptsaBaUT8_RCP2-Wi7cKgwGjJPlZ9qtQlXW1uVCSrNv1gj2MqvzNAA5XWZiV7uM7dyY2u4tGW0uuNPbt5QXkvxa9um4KdfIUwjReDcut-6TcXXpd370cjoW6UIfen120o0Zo9UW4-4GIx/s640/IMG_0653.JPG" width="426" /></a> </div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
Typical lower Mai backdrop.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtiL2iTYob2J_ouMQjnTqfq4RdYzgOlxbITnxkA9v3Dj-2gYxUC_yni6mleVSC4dLsLGtgZdOuQ3HemrTC_WaYWpO-ivpBt-zJQnqyp2lnJ32KAJ180DsmQ52IA-7rOdkRWfaU9qR0l6JT/s1600/DSC07838.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtiL2iTYob2J_ouMQjnTqfq4RdYzgOlxbITnxkA9v3Dj-2gYxUC_yni6mleVSC4dLsLGtgZdOuQ3HemrTC_WaYWpO-ivpBt-zJQnqyp2lnJ32KAJ180DsmQ52IA-7rOdkRWfaU9qR0l6JT/s640/DSC07838.jpg" width="424" /></a> </div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
Oh Mai Mai </div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
We walked back to the truck and began to
load our gear with no real direction, and soon a small group of people
around us grew into a bigger group. Then out of nowhere Joseph
reluctantly said that we are required to pay a fee for experiencing the
area. I took then initiative and asked who was this fee to go to, to
which Joseph introduced me to a man called Hitler. I didn't want any
money to pass hands as this sets a bad precedent and makes it harder for
anyone else who visits the area and I needed to explain this. I done
this by explaining that if this is the only river in PNG where people
are charged to 'experience' it, then no one else will come there. But if
we leave with a good story about the hospitality of this place, the
amazing whitewater, people and scenery then more people will come and
spend money in the local markets, stay in their guesthouses and even
hire local guides if they are so required. Hitler, however, was
insistent about the money and the group was continually growing around
us. So I stepped Hitler and Joseph to the side and Barny coerced
everyone else away with the idea of getting a group photo. Ari and Matt
were concerned about this situation, but I felt it was under control and
eventually my persistence paid off and we can to somewhat of an
understanding. We gave him and his friends a ride back up to the town
ship of Chuave where I reiterated to Hitler why we hadn't given any
money and he was happy with that. We then carried on our way to
Kundiawa, about a one hour drive, from where we would launch our assault
on the Grand Canyons of the Chimbu!</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhm8Bt4z0l97YhWBPQ35dkJixK-DAVM0_kUjNKNnIXc40-Yg-fMLi7JqAiVwlv-2TMAAOVUwTBzyvR-gwCuwT0rhPdQV41hlv_VQ88Ogh6DJCWgImewuKlFCT7FpZB-lO8PZU23WKvd_Xa3/s1600/IMG_0658.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhm8Bt4z0l97YhWBPQ35dkJixK-DAVM0_kUjNKNnIXc40-Yg-fMLi7JqAiVwlv-2TMAAOVUwTBzyvR-gwCuwT0rhPdQV41hlv_VQ88Ogh6DJCWgImewuKlFCT7FpZB-lO8PZU23WKvd_Xa3/s640/IMG_0658.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
Barny attempting to distract the locals at Chuave.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEittfZ8sPqZ72HziZhkriZreKMYh2NCg8_tUxqc43bMo6qpknGFcSh-vKY2rh_Caq4E8mKHpRUHDhQMOUwpNSwEMolEMG0FkKI4ZOU88vY8FS4rfOm0_MHh3z1NRqyDMlrO2uBPzVFDeBFY/s1600/IMG_7862.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEittfZ8sPqZ72HziZhkriZreKMYh2NCg8_tUxqc43bMo6qpknGFcSh-vKY2rh_Caq4E8mKHpRUHDhQMOUwpNSwEMolEMG0FkKI4ZOU88vY8FS4rfOm0_MHh3z1NRqyDMlrO2uBPzVFDeBFY/s640/IMG_7862.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
People just walk out of nowhere to have a yarn. </div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
The next post will detail from Kundiawa to Kundiawa, and our First Descent of the Grand Canyons of the Chimbu. </div>
GW Boyshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13039561902337322202noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3324627131474181714.post-27651268860843951622013-07-24T20:18:00.003-07:002013-07-24T20:18:47.953-07:00Gradient & Water - Back to Papua New Guinea<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1jDlc3DEZ3KqvkTcc-bCfOtPBimTSiZALG8-pjmhLGzv-D4y9nZc67mk3tPGgkdBJWa8KaLJJeZPxnwNlYv2YvI_3JcWu-5qnzz-2ZmBjirYHRv2R9lucMstkRSvNqovqHLRO3tLqEq4T/s1600/IMG_0140.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1jDlc3DEZ3KqvkTcc-bCfOtPBimTSiZALG8-pjmhLGzv-D4y9nZc67mk3tPGgkdBJWa8KaLJJeZPxnwNlYv2YvI_3JcWu-5qnzz-2ZmBjirYHRv2R9lucMstkRSvNqovqHLRO3tLqEq4T/s640/IMG_0140.JPG" width="640" /></a> <br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd_Hy_5ftxNy5Z5psYASzWow8F44uwfzVtxJqSdjiWALyMVNoSHncWWMddiskTBKJHC6vTtYfxe0AcrGs9mHwFhoRy7FngozVW4lv0EeXGtDmsyLOgC3hIJUjr3e9nsSfskCZX7Kz2WXUH/s1600/IMG_0048.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd_Hy_5ftxNy5Z5psYASzWow8F44uwfzVtxJqSdjiWALyMVNoSHncWWMddiskTBKJHC6vTtYfxe0AcrGs9mHwFhoRy7FngozVW4lv0EeXGtDmsyLOgC3hIJUjr3e9nsSfskCZX7Kz2WXUH/s640/IMG_0048.JPG" width="480" /></a> </div>
<br />
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Well,
we're back in action and are heading back to Papua New Guinea! In 2011
Barny Young, Shannon Mast and Myself completed a highly successful
expedition, bagging eight First Descents but leaving some unfinished
business... the Grand Canyons of the Chimbu. This river took us by
surprise as we thought it had been previously been paddled by a raft in
the early 90s but after reaching the first gorge below Banana Market we
knew this wasn't true. A boxed in canyon with a stacked series of Class V
rapids. Once we began portaging (walking or maneuvering) around this
series of rapids some locals appeared out of the jungle and offered to
carry our boats back up to the top, like they had with the rafts the
attempted it in the past. We pushed on, leaving some paddle-able
white-water for another day until the ferocity relented. After putting
back on we paddled some full on class-V until we were confronted with
yet another boxed canyon. With fading light we had to retire from the
river with our tail between our legs, broken and beaten. But we'd be
back.</div>
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhixI-R2fnBYeGQjAd5r8vurHjFkuwhVso-s2JDKMIArWG_4YUg1yNWpNnoI2T6SHTRVYgYUGXHBZhRXDvVD4nL92YoL1MNMuhDESqNi14SaWAd0tqN8pcMvBj_kDorj0MGHBHDB9RYgweJ/s1600/IMG_0830.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhixI-R2fnBYeGQjAd5r8vurHjFkuwhVso-s2JDKMIArWG_4YUg1yNWpNnoI2T6SHTRVYgYUGXHBZhRXDvVD4nL92YoL1MNMuhDESqNi14SaWAd0tqN8pcMvBj_kDorj0MGHBHDB9RYgweJ/s640/IMG_0830.JPG" width="640" /></a> <br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
the boys who offered to hike us out</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGzrltn94s5xOztsuEvkpnqe06Cg84o6rQvl919d9PWwy3EK6NQW1E7m6flEDLNV9afFOiMxdaHySUXvWHVLlaC77945qZCs8uxSJVgE1eBEL1PHqGKj2S437r8xomXitK0VbQnR2DxYHk/s1600/IMG_0839.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGzrltn94s5xOztsuEvkpnqe06Cg84o6rQvl919d9PWwy3EK6NQW1E7m6flEDLNV9afFOiMxdaHySUXvWHVLlaC77945qZCs8uxSJVgE1eBEL1PHqGKj2S437r8xomXitK0VbQnR2DxYHk/s640/IMG_0839.JPG" width="426" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
Chimbu run out rapids</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHzkkHqAa3OYNAui5MsZ1wl9igigopNkMZ3Pl4b4m0zqwk0Im1Ogs1x0gEnZeLEFMEMlFkZhKbFQXU5ePz46y3WiJ_4SyZ6BEvKmA5BKgwKaaJiIRt2Ypx5Tdzekbs5ESLwK3MqTcWvEfr/s1600/IMG_0867.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHzkkHqAa3OYNAui5MsZ1wl9igigopNkMZ3Pl4b4m0zqwk0Im1Ogs1x0gEnZeLEFMEMlFkZhKbFQXU5ePz46y3WiJ_4SyZ6BEvKmA5BKgwKaaJiIRt2Ypx5Tdzekbs5ESLwK3MqTcWvEfr/s640/IMG_0867.JPG" width="426" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
More Chimbu</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwieL7VhOIzdjVDflmrD0zQV3yTUB6UsARdVXoXkO8tR9RuhzdiSY5g2En46CCQte7DNl0zR_Y6fCSPd0paThy_JGKWQZq4T2tSIY0meZHInUbQNeJ-MC0kGl3r7LpzwiL2T4BHLiX01im/s1600/IMG_0675.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwieL7VhOIzdjVDflmrD0zQV3yTUB6UsARdVXoXkO8tR9RuhzdiSY5g2En46CCQte7DNl0zR_Y6fCSPd0paThy_JGKWQZq4T2tSIY0meZHInUbQNeJ-MC0kGl3r7LpzwiL2T4BHLiX01im/s1600/IMG_0675.JPG" /></a></div>
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
Looking at the Sikewage Gorge, forcing us to hike out and come back another day.</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Four
days later we had another attempt at the Chimbu, this time taking the
time to climb down and scouting the gorge from within. We figured we'd
paddled the first two rapids, portage the third and then climb out and
over where the whole river went underground. Putting back on and
continuing down through the 3 remaining gorges. This was not to be. Once
the three of us made it into the gorge Barny stepped up to fired the
first full-on rapid. After 'whiteing-out' in the entrance Barny got
caught up on a inconspicuous boil. Fighting for a long time, Barny
finally succumbed and exited his kayak. Going deep for 28 seconds (on
video!) and then washing through the rapid we wanted portage and then
managed to get himself to the bank before the river went underground!
Barny's boat, however, was missing. After a few hours of trying to find
whether it was in an undercut or in the subterranean river system, we
had to cut our losses and get out of the canyon before dark. Even more
broken and beaten than our previous attempt, we were left standing on
the road above the canyon. Gazing down on some of the most enticing and
intimidating white-water we'd ever seen. </div>
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUwaFlbOAryB48HCd4Is8eqCkcPCJEorW8DdZxrJI44l3hg0uq_ErLj6uSZEdsf5nkvo6vr40D2YD7CUHRq7394WmDcv4zqqcb22lb7_1sqp-ROzDr9QJtIuWoUruWSqTHltZyekWJcl23/s1600/IMG_0919.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUwaFlbOAryB48HCd4Is8eqCkcPCJEorW8DdZxrJI44l3hg0uq_ErLj6uSZEdsf5nkvo6vr40D2YD7CUHRq7394WmDcv4zqqcb22lb7_1sqp-ROzDr9QJtIuWoUruWSqTHltZyekWJcl23/s640/IMG_0919.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
Barny scouting the rapid that would get him</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEishIbe_Zan2ZJ0JiKdRrCe7lOeaOqyawNgU4CWUCn41wdP9_48O0hRux2xFOTbx-e35FKbFS-zGWGq_toQ3_dlNygCCcodxljOWKTEBVBH2KmzWnQMCHnBEQ090qmld3sutX6_8FMm5Q6u/s1600/IMG_0689.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEishIbe_Zan2ZJ0JiKdRrCe7lOeaOqyawNgU4CWUCn41wdP9_48O0hRux2xFOTbx-e35FKbFS-zGWGq_toQ3_dlNygCCcodxljOWKTEBVBH2KmzWnQMCHnBEQ090qmld3sutX6_8FMm5Q6u/s640/IMG_0689.JPG" width="426" /></a> </div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
Shannon and I entering the Sikewage Gorge</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhafNw2eaqXlyzShFrzImlbizY6dUKycuATWJXdNFaRtFa4ks-nE0Ays7gx197ZTnzJ8kDpUXKG-TxJHC0-afC89xAJ0Rm2wSVnYsQpwRN9SkPpLlWcZvT7ODRhGw9JJxdCsmWflE5-4c-Q/s1600/IMG_0696.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhafNw2eaqXlyzShFrzImlbizY6dUKycuATWJXdNFaRtFa4ks-nE0Ays7gx197ZTnzJ8kDpUXKG-TxJHC0-afC89xAJ0Rm2wSVnYsQpwRN9SkPpLlWcZvT7ODRhGw9JJxdCsmWflE5-4c-Q/s640/IMG_0696.JPG" width="426" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
Breath-taking.</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGuDHt6h5HAj8ISprvU2UO5ASk1UkupgFPm1kBanO_6jIxOWM97chqKASHeCRize2R2RyzLPaAKq-7DI3yJMahkxaVyHD-QGM3gBIwYMopcpOdDzRgetQ0EwvFma_ASkHTauIxLOaHGy0O/s1600/IMG_0960.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGuDHt6h5HAj8ISprvU2UO5ASk1UkupgFPm1kBanO_6jIxOWM97chqKASHeCRize2R2RyzLPaAKq-7DI3yJMahkxaVyHD-QGM3gBIwYMopcpOdDzRgetQ0EwvFma_ASkHTauIxLOaHGy0O/s640/IMG_0960.JPG" width="426" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
Barny about to fire</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNreg47syDz0BEmw_DJw_p49Bl79hBKXBFM1uI5xHQuDbKsOcSq-ito30LbwKvnsxhogSsc2boRzY167IBt0zKTCJ8JeEfHGuslpW5-d_ZLQc62NPgSWdK_E4QCkwvm6XdzvUgh8GhFKyI/s1600/IMG_0971.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNreg47syDz0BEmw_DJw_p49Bl79hBKXBFM1uI5xHQuDbKsOcSq-ito30LbwKvnsxhogSsc2boRzY167IBt0zKTCJ8JeEfHGuslpW5-d_ZLQc62NPgSWdK_E4QCkwvm6XdzvUgh8GhFKyI/s640/IMG_0971.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
Barny 'whiteing-out'...</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiom4736VKFLqFn-bXAErj0qi7qx9NqYxdJQi6X5TVtNVf1vhtDkeu7Qd4MBK6gOJfMqRuHI46SqwpEnFXQgp5suwGsdjM6Rq_h_bh8lpjJ0H6aCEb70rn-uw7e_ipgLy4HtRVXi-xB02Ad/s1600/IMG_0975.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiom4736VKFLqFn-bXAErj0qi7qx9NqYxdJQi6X5TVtNVf1vhtDkeu7Qd4MBK6gOJfMqRuHI46SqwpEnFXQgp5suwGsdjM6Rq_h_bh8lpjJ0H6aCEb70rn-uw7e_ipgLy4HtRVXi-xB02Ad/s640/IMG_0975.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
... and about to get pumped!</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
During
our expedition de-brief we all felt we had achieved great things in
Papua New Guinea, but also felt that the Chimbu had beaten us. Something
that didn't sit well at all. During 2012 things were good but the
Chimbu was in the back of my mind. And an email from Sport New Zealands
Fiona Ramsay, announcing applications were open for the Sir Edmund
Hillary Expedition Grant, was the catalyst to get things going again.
Obviously not being able to rely on getting such a prestigious award two
times in a row, Barny and I am worked as hard as we could to raise
funds with our annual white-water calendar and various other money
spinning plans. But we were coming up well-short. I spent a large amount
of time spent on a grant application with Sport NZ with some hope that
our previous efforts might give us another chance at a grant. Once we
got short-listed our hopes were heightened but we had to cast it out of
mind, or we could have been let down by not getting it. Fortunately for
us the stars aligned and Sport NZ seen the value of our expedition and
would make our trip possible by contributing to our expedition. </div>
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Spring time preparation, me bagging the</div>
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First Descent of Toaroha Falls.</div>
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Matt Coles coming through 'Carnage Gorge' during a</div>
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high flow run down the Kokatahi River.</div>
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Barny Young routing a steep section on the</div>
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Upper Whitcombe.</div>
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Our training ground!</div>
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Our
initial plan was to have the original crew of Barny, Shannon and Myself
for the expedition but unfortunately Shannon was unable to take-part.
So we were on the hunt for a mate or two to fill the HUGE shoes of
Shannon Mast. And who better than his partner in crime, Matt 'Wild-Bill'
Coles. But at the exact same time our boy, Ari 'The-Curry' Walker, also
expressed his genuine interest. How to pick between two great
candidates... well we didn't know. So both are coming! </div>
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Leaving
May 3rd, the four of us will travel to PNG with the hopes of conquering
the Grand Canyons of the Chimbu. One of the most testing pieces of
white-water any of us will ever face, in one of the most hostile
countries in our present day. Our preparations are coming to an end, our
flights are booked and we're as eager as ever. Its the final count-down
to what we hope will be the experience of a life time!</div>
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GW Boyshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13039561902337322202noreply@blogger.com0